Sunday 21 October 2012

Visiting Q'burg (part one)

Last week we took a short motoring holiday into the middle-ish part of Germany.  Having assembled everything needful - and not necessarily needful - we set off.  We had planned to leave at about 8 in the morning but ended up setting off at around 10 o'clock instead.  But it was Sunday so the roads were relatively quiet, especially as it is the rule here in Germany that no lorries are to be on the road on Sundays.
Ratingen. Essen. Bochum. Dortmund. Unna. The towns and cities flew past as we followed the sinuous autobahn; snaking its way eastwards.  
After a while we were able to turn off, and take a more genteel, meandering way.  A stop for a mid morning snack was followed later by lunch and then even later by afternoon tea.
Built up areas gave way to fields and farms which in turn gradually gave way to forest and steep inclines as we entered the Harz mountains.  
This photograph was taken by Kirk Dale while we were having lunch
There was the occasional heavy downpour of rain, followed by long periods where a truculent grey sky looked moodily down upon us.  Would it rain for our entire trip?  Or would the weather be gentle with us?
Music-wise, we were accompanied most of the way by Jean Philippe Rameau and his wonderful overtures but we entered Quedlinburg (our journey's end) to the triumphant strains of William Boyce's sparkling Symphonies.

The first time we went to Quedlinburg it looked like this:

This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale when it was freezing cold!
It was freezing cold and the town was encased in deep snow which made for a difficult drive to the hotel, as the snow ploughs seemed to be on a 'go slow'.  The car was often bogged down and it was AGA's job to get out and push because of course I had to stay inside (in the warm) and steer . . .  It is hard to stroll about seeing the sights when you are cold...
This time however, all that was forgotten because Quedlinburg looked like this: 
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
We stayed in a very nice hotel which is situated in the middle of the Old Town:
This photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
The rooms shown by the windows below the writing on the wall were where we took our breakfast each morning.
Quedlingburg is a town that can be visited in a day.  A two night stay is all that is needed really, unless you are going to use it as a base for exploring the region.  This is what a lot of people do.  We, however, stayed for two nights.

Quedlingburg is old.  It was in existence from at least the 10th century.  This has led to its rather higgledy piggledy appearance.  Roads are all over the place.  Houses are all over the place.  Each new corner or curve in the road or alleyway leads to something new to discover.

This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale. 
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.

This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
Quedlinburg is a town that struggles.  AGA and I got the impression that there was a great deal of unemployment and hard times for a lot of people.  This is old East Germany and one wonders whether all the money that pours in from the more affluent western parts of the Country as part of the Reunification tax that we are contribute to, really helps build the infrastructure to improve lives.  There were a great many empty houses in the town.

A potted history in a building fragment: The unrepaired damage to this abandoned house shows layers of time.  Originally the house was quite well to do with a wooden frame filled in with bricks laid in varying patterns.  Later on it was successively plastered over and at one time looks to have been painted yellow:
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
19th Century and early 20th Century Quedlinburg was very fashionable and on the outskirts are many mansions built as retreats for wealthy people, such as this Greek Revival house:
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
I like this next building.  Somewhat off the tourist track it sits abandoned and somewhat dilapidated.  But when it was in its heyday it must have been quite a sight!  Dating from an age where ornamentation and individuality were the order of the day, it is very different to the uninspiring and somewhat clone-like minimalism we often see today.  The sign tells me that this used to be a bakers and cake shop, operated by A. Hubis.  I expect that he/she was very proud of the frontage once it was completed:
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
Everywhere one is surrounded by history.  This house was built in 1562:
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
We visited the somewhat severe church of St. Benedict-by-the-market, siting in what is roughly the middle of the town:
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
 It looms over the surrounding houses and looks rather grim but inside is another matter:
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
No flash photography was allowed inside so the photographs are somewhat grainy.  I did like this wood carving of what I take to be Our Lady, dressed a la Tudor:
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
 And here is King David (dating from 1663) playing his harp:
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
I also liked this simple little sketch painting of Noah's Ark, executed within an ornate Baroque cartouche:
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
Of course, when one is seeing the sites there needs to be time for a sit down and some reflection.  What better place in Quedlinburg is there to go than this café named for Roland (companion of Charlemagne):

This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
Reclining inside among large cushioned settles, we drank large cups of hot chocolate.  AGA's is on the left.  He had his served with a huge dollop of marzipan which you can just see beginning to sink.  Mine, on the right, is 'au natural' with cream and cinnamon:
This Photograph was taken by Kirk Dale.
Well, I hope you have enjoyed this first part of my post on Quedlinburg.  I decided to split things up so it wouldn't get too long.  Now I can work on part two!

6 comments:

  1. Hello Kirk, What a perfect road trip to Quedlinburg, with which I was previously unfamiliar. It is absolutely full of charm and age. It also shares the same financial problems with a lot of American small towns, which is unfortunate given how much there is to appreciate and preserve.

    I really like the way you can see the layers of history on the buildings, which show up so well in your photos. By the way, I am also a fan of Rameau and Boyce, and thinking of their music while reading this really made for a complete experience.

    I am looking forward to Part 2.
    --Road to Parnassus

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  2. Dear Parnassus,
    Thank you for your nice comments.
    Quedlinburg is well worth the visit if you are ever in the area.
    AGA told me that when he first visited in the 1990s, many of the roads were dirt and chickens ran around about! Buildings were somewhat run down and the place needed a good going over. It is interesting to see how much has been done in the intervening years.
    I love the music of Rameau. I particularly admire the interpretations of Marc Minkowksi and of Christophe Rousset.
    Kirk

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  3. Hello Kirk

    Thank you for taking us along on this journey.. Quedlinburg is new for me and I am re-reading your description and wonderful images. I share your taste in architecture and my favourite is the A Hubis building. The interior of St. Benedict by the Market is magnificent and I am particularly fond of the image "Noah's Arc".
    Hot chocolate is perfect for such an Autumn day

    Helen xx

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    1. Dear Helen,
      Yes, there is something about that Noah's Ark image isn't there. It was part of a series of similar sketch paintings entitled 'the Triumph of Faith' and they formed the wall of a set of seats reserved for the town dignitaries of the time.
      The only thing missing from the hot chocolate was a couple of marshmallows!
      Kirk

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  4. Dear Kirk - I am totally charmed by this delightful post on Quedlinburg. It is everything I expect of Germany following our visit this past summer to Charlemagne's domain in Aachen and the Moselle Valley.
    I was surprised by their churches, expecting them to be very Lutheran in style, but found them to be very catholic and full of ornamentation. I love their medieval timber buildings which are so different in style from our own.
    I would like to visit this area now, having seen this post - thank you.

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    1. Dear Rosemary,
      I know what you mean. I expected Germany to be very Lutheran but in parts it is very Catholic as will be seen in the next town we visited. Having said that though, I think that the exuberant flowery effect of a full on baroque extravaganza had its effect even on the stricter Protestants and it is reflected in the interior design and decoration of their more sombre churches as well, at least it is here in Germany.
      The Harz mountains are a lovely spot to visit. Very picturesque. I would recommend the town of Wernigerode as well. They have a very nice hotel there in the town square.
      Kirk

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