Tuesday 8 January 2013

Wet Welsh Christmas (Part One)


AGA and I decided to spend Christmas far away from it all, on the Welsh borders.

It rained.

A lot.

There were long, long periods of dull grey weather as well.

But on the plus side we really appreciated the few periods of sunshine and blue skies!

* * * * *
This is how are journey started:



We drove from home to Calais and stayed there overnight.
Early on the following morning, I somewhat nervously drove the car onto the Chunnel train, bound for England.
It was my first time taking a left hand drive vehicle from Europe to England.  My nervousness was not helped by going on the Chunnel train as I do not like going under the ground (let alone under the sea as well!)  However I was pleasantly surprised.
No disasters took place.  The train didn't stop half way, or catch fire, or break down.  The Chunnel didn't collapse either; and we arrived safe and sound at Folkestone roughly half an hour after setting out.
We then motored upwards and westwards (through driving rain) until we reached the English Welsh border; made for Llangollen and arrived at our destination just a short drive outside the village of Llydiart y parc, by which time it had stopped raining:


Our cottage (roughly where the light is on in this photograph) was originally one of the out buildings of this farm but has been renovated into a very nice, modern (but not too modern) place where one can retire to be far away from the madding crowd.  The 'big house' is also rented out and at the time was catering for a family of nine people spending Christmas together.
The owners live on site, are courteous and genial without being over the top - in fact the perfect hosts.  We had stayed at this place before and once again, not only was our welcome warm but the accommodation was, as usual, excellent:


And so we spent a pleasant Christmas surrounded by beautiful countryside:

Sheep:
Various pheasants:
The odd llama:
And not much else:

* * * * * 

This area of Wales is associated with Owain Glyn Dŵr (known in England as Owen Glendower).  Just down the road from where we were staying is the site of his manor at Glyndyfrdwy:


It was here that Owain proclaimed, or had himself proclaimed, Prince of Wales in about 1400, and then led a very successful revolt against English rule before mysteriously vanishing:


The cause of Owain's revolt was a land dispute with his neighbour Reginald de Grey, who resided at nearby Ruthin:


Modern day Ruthin has some very nice buildings.  AGA and I decided that we could quite happily take over the Castle Hotel and reside there:

Reginald lived within the sturdy fortress that was Ruthin Castle.  When Owain Glyn Dŵr and his men came and attacked the town they destroyed it although they could not overcome the castle:


Now alas the castle is little more than a ruin within which was built the present day Victorian 'castle' (now a hotel):

Back at Glyndyfrdwy we went to the top of the mound where Owain had himself resided.  AGA took my photograph leaning against one of the old oak trees that now grace the summit:


I hope that Owain didn't mind that the descendent of the man who burnt his manor to the ground (for Reginald de Grey is my ancestor) was now strolling nonchalantly about the place, having his photograph taken!

17 comments:

  1. How romantic looking it is! I love the photo of the green pastures with the river cutting through it. I'm glad you enjoyed your trip. Happy New Year!

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    1. You know what MW? It was romantic. Especially when it was cool and wet and dark outside but inside our little cottage there was a nice log fire and cups of tea of hot chocolate depending upon the mood.
      Kirk
      PS
      Happy New Year to you too!

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  2. What a dramatic landscape. Wales has always been on my list of places to visit. I am wondering what Owain's mound consisted of, or how it was built.

    Looking forward to part two of Wales.
    --Road to Parnassus

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    1. Dear Jim,
      Wales is indeed a beautiful place. Both AGA and I really enjoy going there. It is a wonderful and (in most parts) very 'natural' looking place.
      The mound was fairly difficult to get up although it joined another smaller mound on a neighbouring farmland. The ground was quite stony too and I am not sure if it was manmade or just a natural formation. The photograph of the River was taken from the top of it.
      It was not the only 'bump' on the landscape so I am guessing that it was natural - however having said that it will probably turn out to be otherwise!

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  3. Dear Kirk - sorry that the UK had so much rain for your visit - unbelievably it is now really mild and sunny. Even so, you managed to get some great photos - I love the one of the countryside with the river in full flow.
    If Owain could see you now, I am sure that he would be most forgiving.

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    1. Dear Rosemary,
      Yes we seemed to drag the rain around with us as if by magic! On our last day it was certainly clearer. Now the rain is here! Perhaps Owain had a word upstairs!

      WIthout wanting to brag, I must say that I really like that photograph of the river too. It is the River Dee. Llangollen will be away to the right and Corwen away to the left. We intend returning for a few days in the summer too.

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  4. Hello Kirk,
    I'm sure if rugged Owain Glyn Dwr could see that contemporary travel doesn't necessitate rampage, beheading and all-round running amok, he'd pluck himself out of the buried past and shake your hand!
    What I would do to be in such a beautiful, wild/tamed, unscripted, timeless place!
    Glyndyfrdwy - with a little judicious clipping of some of those branches - looks like a perfect garden.
    I was only saying elsewhere this evening to another blogger how inspirational wild spaces are to the gardener, how, in fact, they are somehow at the core of gardening.
    I hope all the beauty you've got to know here stays with you throughout 2013.
    All the best,
    Faisal.

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    1. Der Faisal,
      I totally agree with you regarding the inspiration to be found in the world's wild places. I think that is why I am drawn to such areas as the Lake District in England and to the High Country in Victoria. There is always something otherworldly about such places. Plus it creates a sense of freedom.
      Thank you for your kind wishes.
      Stay cool!
      Kirk

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  5. Happy New Year, Kirk!
    I so enjoyed this post: even with the rain, Wales looks delightful! Ruthin seems like fertile ground for antique and book hunting-- I hope you found some wonderful souvenirs of your holiday. The president of my graduate school was from Wales, thus we had yearly Guy Fawkes celebrations (with bonfires, of course!) and benefited from his uniquely Welsh sense of humor....! I've always wanted to visit-- and now, having seen your photos, the urgency is renewed. I'm sure Owain would be charmed to have you as a guest, despite Reginald-- how could he resist???!!!
    Warm regards,
    Erika

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    1. Dear Erika,
      Thank you for your nice comments.
      Ruthin did not have much in the way of antiques and books but there were plenty of other places I can tell you! This is why our car was somewhat full 'pressed down and overflowing' with various treasures!
      Despite my Robber Baron ancestors I do also have some Welsh ones who were distantly related to Owain so I hope he would have turned a blind eye to my being there!
      Bye for now
      Kirk
      PS
      Yes go and visit Wales - you won't regret it!

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  6. Dear Kirk - I like the idea of turning the Christmas holiday into an adventure. And your destination looks as though it provided a perfect combination of sight-seeing and escape. The greens and purples of the countryside are a lovely site and a lovely sight!

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    1. Dear Mark,
      You kind comment puts it very succinctly! At one point I was thinking that everywhere I turned I saw beauty and that my camera simply would not do justice to it all.
      Bye for now
      Kirk

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  7. Hello Kirk,
    It looks really pretty even in the wet - good to see you remembered your Wellingtons (I always forget and have to buy a pair each time!). The Castle hotel is really beautiful. The mound was also very interesting, good photos. Pleased you had an enjoyable trip - worth the Chunnel ride!!
    Best whises, Ivan

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    1. It certainly was worth the ride! I intend to do it again in the summer!

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  8. Poetic (photographic?) justice...

    Beautiful photos. Clearly not in Kansas.

    Somehow, it all looks much more "right" without the blue sky.

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    1. You are right. The grey sky compliments the scenery. A blue sky might not have made for such dramatic effects!

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  9. Kirk, the Wales country side is just so amazingly beautiful it simply takes my breath away! Very good portrait of you leaning at the ancient oak. It is nice to see the person behind the blog! Oh, and I love your Wellies!
    Christina

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